About the Ucross Ranch
The 20,000-acre Ucross Ranch lies along Clear Creek on the western edge of the Powder River Basin. The property consists mainly of rolling grasslands interspersed with "clinker" hills and knobby buttes. The ranch's elevations range from 4,000 to 4,600 feet. The property includes riparian habitat and wetlands, several areas of native grasslands, and upland habitat for two bird species of special interest, the long-billed curlew and the sage grouse. Many raptors including bald eagles nest on the property. The abundant bird life of the ranch also includes the sandhill crane, mountain bluebird, wild turkey, great blue heron, western meadowlark, American goldfinch, kingfisher and many others. Other wildlife includes pronghorn antelope, mule deer, whitetail deer, beaver, badger, bobcat, coyote, mink and fox.
The uplands of Ucross are composed of grassland cover and shrubland steppe (sometimes called shortgrass prairie) with short bunch grasses and sparsely distributed shrubs such as silver sagebrush. Wyoming big sage and the bluebunch wheatgrass plant community grow on the ridge tops. On the upper slopes there are small patches of chokecherry in draws and swales, and skunkbush on very dry slopes. Herbaceous ground cover includes prairie June grass, blue grama, and side-oats grama grasses, needle and thread, and western wheatgrass. In the spring, numerous wildflowers can be found throughout the ranch, including prairie star, sunflower, sego lily and sand lily, western yarrow and blue flax.
The property remains a working cattle ranch, leased by the Apache Foundation, and is managed holistically with a focus on good stewardship of the land. In 1999, a conservation easement was place on more than half the ranch, held by the Wyoming Chapter of The Nature Conservancy.
In Wyoming Territory in 1878 towards the close of the Indian Wars, the Pratt and Ferris Cattle Company was incorporated by four partners: James H. Pratt (born in Massachusetts in 1825, Pratt rose to the rank of Colonel in the Civil War and went on to be appointed Post Trader at Fort Randall in Dakota Territory in the 1870's), his brother-in-law Cornelius Ferris, Marshall Field of Chicago (of the famed department store), and another brother-in-law of Pratt.
All of the four ranches which made up the company were situated on former Indian hunting grounds, with Big Red and Big Corrals in Powder River basin on Sioux bison hunting grounds. Two of the four ranches were in Goshen county, the PF on the Platte River near the Nebraska line and the Upper PF on Rawhide Creek. Big Red and Big Corrals (a few miles east of Clearmont) were in what was then Johnson County but is now Sheridan County. The village of Ucross that settled around Big Red went through several name changes, including Cedar Rapids (which it was known as in 1913), Dow, Charger and finally Ucross, after the original PF brand.
Big Red became the headquarters for all four ranches sometime in the 1880's. The Ranch House is one of the oldest standing houses in the area. Construction on the house and the Big Red Barn began in 1882. Among the house’s many modern features was a bathroom with hot and cold running water. A copper-lined wooden tank in the attic furnished the water pressure. From 1886 to 1902, a fourth-class post office was operated at Big Red to serve the ranch and neighboring settlements. Big Red was also on the stagecoach route that serviced Buffalo to Clearmont during the years 1891 to 1911. Old timers refer to that service as the BCB Railroad: “Buffalo to Clearmont and Back.”
In the 1890's, Marshall Field sold his shares in Pratt and Ferris to his former Chicago partner, Levi Leiter. Chicago real estate and the department store had made Leiter a wealthy man. He was a sharp-minded, astute businessman and he became the dominant partner in the cattle company, holding 2,914 of the 4,000 shares (more than twice as many as Colonel Pratt’s 1,086 shares). He exercised a great deal of management and financial authority over the affairs of all four ranches but he never visited any of them in person. During the late 1890's Leiter and Pratt bought out the other stockholders in the Pratt and Ferris Cattle Company and they became its sole owners. In the year 1900 the company ran 3,500 cattle on the two Platte River ranches and 13,000 on the Big Red and Big Corrals ranches.
Levi Leiter hired William C. (“Billy”) Irvine in the spring of 1903 as the manager for all four ranches. He headquartered at Big Red until leaving in 1905 or 1906. Under Irvine the ranch switched from running cattle to running sheep. Leiter died in the summer of 1904 and his widow, daughters and only son Joseph inherited all of his shares of the Clear Creek holdings (including Big Red and Big Corrals) as well as some property at the site of the Upper PF near Lingle, Wyoming. His son assumed management of the ranches. Leiter’s will stipulated that the estate could not be divided until the last of his children had died. Joe Leiter ran Big Red and Big
Corrals and his interest was focused on the most advanced irrigation techniques and farm crops rather than cattle or sheep. He was a major force behind the Lake DeSmet Water Project, the second Kearney Lake Company, and other irrigation projects that still serve the crop lands of the valley today.
Colonel Pratt died in 1910. Gradually, the properties were divided into individual tenant farms and leased to many of the Russian-German immigrants who had come west. This tenant “project” was called the Leiter Estates, and most of the farmers grew sugar beets. Joe Leiter began the negotiations with Holly Sugar to construct the Sheridan mill, which was ready by 1916 for local crops. Leiter put his energy and the company’s money into expanding the irrigation and farming and by 1921 over 6,000 acres of Big Red and Big Corrals were under irrigated cultivation.
A sagging market combined with labor and capital demands and other factors led to a general decline in Wyoming’s farm economies, culminating in the failure of the Clearmont bank. Shortly thereafter, Joe left for Chicago and had little to do with the properties after 1926. The Great Depression set in and from 1929 to around 1949, the Clear Creek valley ranches operated in sporadic fashion.
In 1949 Leiter Estates sold all of the Clear Creek holdings known as Big Red and Big Corrals to Sheridan rancher John Rice. Rice was killed on a flight to Australia and his widow sold off the small farm units originally farmed by the tenants. Alex Pitsch purchased Big Red, where his family had once been tenants, and ran the property for many years. Alex and Leora Pitsch were married at Big Red Ranch House.
In the mid 1960's the Pitsch property was purchased by Apache Corporation which also began to acquire other parcels originally part of the Big Red Pratt and Ferris complex on Clear Creek. Apache Corporation donated Big Red and approximately 250 acres surrounding the buildings to the Ucross Foundation, a non-profit organization incorporated in Wyoming on June 1, 1981. The funds were raised to restore the Big Red Barn and the Ranch House. The Big Red Ranch Complex is on the National Register of Historic Places and can be toured by the public Monday-Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.